Bios settings review for oc

[bramdo]

Hi Guys,

I hope these bios settings are any good according to the specialist (you) opinion because i did a lot of research in all the posts. Problem is that I also have the CPU Core and real temp issue where under prime the CPU gets 70 dregrees celsius under load when oc to 3.2 ghz and 55 idle. In realtemp it's 60 load / and 50 idle despite the noctua cpu cooler . I would like to change these settings to get save 3.00 ghz but i dis my homework for the 3.2 ghz and forgot how to change the settings to 3.00 ghz (voltage etc)

Please take a look, Thanks Bram

Ai Overclock Tuner = Manual
OC From CPU Level Up = AUTO
CPU Ratio Control = Manual
- Ratio CMOS Setting = 8
FSB Frequency = 400
FSB Strap to North Bridge = 333
PCI-E Frequency= 100
DRAM Frequency= DDR2 1066
DRAM Command Rate = 2T
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel A = Auto
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel B = Auto
DRAM Timing Control= Manual
CAS# Latency = 5
RAS# to CAS# Delay = 5
RAS# Precharge = 5
RAS# ActivateTime = 15
RAS# to RAS# Delay = Auto
Row Refresh Cycle Time = 50
Write Recovery Time = Auto
Read to Precharge Time = Auto

Read to Write Delay (S/D) = Auto
Write to Read Delay (S) = Auto
Write to Read Delay (D) = Auto
Read to Read Delay (S) = Auto
Read to Read Delay (D) = Auto
Write to Write Delay (S) = Auto
Write to Write Delay (D) = Auto

Write to PRE Delay = Auto
Read to PRE Delay = Auto
PRE to PRE Delay = Auto
ALL PRE to ACT Delay = Auto
ALL PRE to REF Delay = Auto

DRAM Static Read Control= Enabled
Ai Clock Twister = Auto
Transaction Booster = Auto

Pull-In of CHA PH1 Disabled
Pull-In of CHA PH2 Disabled
Pull-In of CHB PH1 Disabled
Pull-In of CHB PH2 Disabled

CPU Voltage = 1.45v
CPU PLL Voltage = 1.55v
North Bridge Voltage = 1.4v
DRAM Voltage = 2.1v
FSB Termination Voltage = 1.3v
South Bridge Voltage = Auto
Loadline Calibration = Enabled
CPU GTL Reference = Auto
North Bridge GTL Reference = Auto
DDR2 Channel A REF Voltage = DDR2-REFF
DDR2 Channel B REF Voltage = DDR2-REFF
DDR2 Controller REF Voltage = DDR2-REFF
SB 1.5V Voltage = 1.5


-------------------------
Asus Rampage with Q9450
KINGSTON HYPER X 6400 2*2024
Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 6x500gb
Adaptec raid controller 2405 in raid 0 (3 X 2 disks)
Plextor px 810sa
XFX Geforce 9800 GTX Black ed.
Silverstone TJ10
Be Quiet! 650 dark power pro

[Acidtears33]

Did you check the seating of your heat sink?

Make sure it is seated properly by looking at its base after being installed.

If the thermal compound is spread evenly then it is something else. If the paste is uneven then you have a mounting issue.

[trueg50]

Shut down now!

1.45 is way too high for a 45nm chip. for 3.0ghz, 1.45 is high for any Intel quad core CPU.

1.4 should be the absolute max for any overclock with your chip. Heck I'd set it to 1.35 tops.

Set the GTL reference voltages to .67, drop the CPU PLL voltage to 1.5 (should set it to 1.55 do to the normal voltage increase), set SB voltage to 1.1 volts, set the transaction booster to perhaps 8 to be sure its stable, then decrease it later once the system is stable.

Read this article from anandtech on tRD (http://www.anandtech.com/mb/showdoc.aspx?i=3208), and note that the x38 and x48 are pretty much interchangable (I am running your Rampage BIOS on my Maximous Formula actually.) So you can read this thread (http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/269840-asus-p5e-x38-thread.html) (on overclock.net) and it should help a bit.

[bramdo]

Hi guys,

thankyou and especially for the links. I'm still in the learning process so second thoughts and expert opinions on my conclusion come in handy and life saving :redface:
I will check it all out and put your safer settings into practice
Bram

[trueg50]

Hi guys,

thankyou and especially for the links. I'm still in the learning process so second thoughts and expert opinions on my conclusion come in handy and life saving :redface:
I will check it all out and put your safer settings into practice
Bram

Just remember, it is best to do tons of research and go slow and light.

Also, try and keep the northbridge and southbridge temps under 50 ish, just a recommendation, not a requirement.

Also if you try and remove the northbridge cooler, there is a specific way of doing this to avoid taking the chip with it.

All I did was:

Undid all the screws, and push pins for the southbridge.

gently twist the Northhbridge heatsink a little back and forth

Using a screwdriver very gently push it in an twist it (don't pry!)

Gently twist the Northbridge heatsink again.

keep doing this til it release's. Just remember pulling the heatsink up can pull the chip off too, so go easy and gently.

[Sadasius]

Also if you try and remove the northbridge cooler, there is a specific way of doing this to avoid taking the chip with it.

All I did was:

Undid all the screws, and push pins for the southbridge.

gently twist the Northhbridge heatsink a little back and forth

Using a screwdriver very gently push it in an twist it (don't pry!)

Gently twist the Northbridge heatsink again.

keep doing this til it release's. Just remember pulling the heatsink up can pull the chip off too, so go easy and gently.

I used a hairdryer and heated up the back of the board. Damn near just fell off. Some have used the freezer method as well and from what I have heard it literally pops off from the TIM shrinking.

[trueg50]

I used a hairdryer and heated up the back of the board. Damn near just fell off. Some have used the freezer method as well and from what I have heard it literally pops off from the TIM shrinking.

Wow, didn't think it actually worked.

I was thinking about what to do and realized: " I am careful, and know what I am doing, I'll go for it and just used very little force and a lot of patience".

In the Overclock.net forum, some guy tried it, and lacked the two items, little force, and patience, and tried to just pop it off with a screw driver. He removed the heatsink alright, unfortunately the IHS and chip came with it.