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jedihobbit
03-16-2010, 01:06 AM
Initially started this over here http://www.bjorn3d.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32519 because of never having worked with a XFX mobo and thought I might need help. Boy was I right and still do!! :ahhhhh: But this is for the mechanicals anyway...... ;-) This is giving my first completed 'puter new life, which the wife doesn't know about or would approve. Even though is was built for her.:eek2:

Specs are:

Case: Customized old generic "pakman" case
PSU: Tt TR2 600W**
Mobo: MDA72P7509 AM2+/AM2 NVIDIA nForce (http://www.bjorn3d.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32519#) 750a SLI
CPUhttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/2_bing.gif (http://www.bjorn3d.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32519#): PI X3 8750BE
HSF: Zalman CNPS9700-NT
GPU: XFX (http://www.bjorn3d.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32519#) GTS 250 512
Memory: G. Skill F2-8500CL5D-2GBPK

Here are a couple of pix of the old build:

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1/Ozr1LtSideViewSM.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1/Oz1r13-4FrtSM.jpg

I'll end this with some better shots when it is "finished"

I spent most of the weekend trying to figure out the bios issues I’m having with the 750a, without much luck!! SO off to do some mechanicals……….

The original build had always concerned me about the lack of cooling/airflow. Starting with remedying the front cooling issue I attached the front bezel with much in trepidation. After all if I mess it up, not only will it be obvious that I doing a clandestine build but ruined the case she likes.

First thing was to enlarge the cooling holes at the bottom of the bezel. Having a major cranial infarction right now and can’t remember the drill sizes. Anyway tape it off and marked the holes so as not to screw up the pattern. Using the top row as the start, I went form the first to the last marking every second hole and also did the third row. For the middle row of holes I offset one hole. Used these for the larger holes and then opened the balance with a slightly larger bit than the stock holes. This opened them up as the stock hole seem to taper and had been filled with my heavy handed paint job. To keep the bezel from moving too much I kinda sorta did a jig……

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/MarkingHoles.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/GettingReadytoDrill.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/RedoneHolesRear.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/RedoneHolesFront.jpg

Still not happy with the amount of “openings” I tried to figure what else could be done. Then I noticed that on the bottom of the bezel was an elongated cutout and went hummmmmm. Decided to see how much I could mess up and do something similar on each side. Need to miss the mounting extrusions, and have it high enough to take advantage of the 120mm fan. So marked it off, cut with the coping saw and then used a file to try and smooth it out. At that I wasn't too successful.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/LayingOutSideVent.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/SideCoolingSlot.jpg

jedihobbit
03-16-2010, 01:10 AM
Now it was time to cut the clearance hole for the 120mm, as I don’t have a hole saw it was rough cut time with the dremel. Didn’t have to be all that neat (and it wasn’t) as the bezel hides the front of the cutout and the fan does it for the interior. Didn’t have to do anything with the rear fan but mount it. Forgot what they called the finish but looks right good.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/Starting120mmHole.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/120mmFanInPlace.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/Frt120mmRearView.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/Rear80mmisPurrdy.jpg

As noted I was flustered with the overclocking I wasn’t doing so decided to go ahead and just put the system together. I had taken all the drives and such out to cut the hole, so back in they went. As I wanted to attempt to do a half-A job of cable management I installed the PSU in the chassis and tried to figure where to hide the cables……PSU, Optical Drives, HDD, and the fan controller with its temp probes. I was even so desperate to get it running I “borrowed” a HDD as the one for Oz was still “in the mail”. Then went to install the mobo and remembered the I/O plate was also “still in the mail”. Well If I do it right, I shouldn’t have to do much but unplug things.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/PuttingStuffBack.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/StartingCableManagement.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/InitialPSUCables.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/CableManagementGettingThere.jpg

While this was an “old” case it still has a lot going for it. As mentioned the prior thread both sides, top, and front bezel come off make access to the interior great. Another thing is what I call the excess cable tray. This is the space between the drive cages and the right side. Makes routing things like Video power, floppy (have one I painted for this build back when sooooo), and optical drives. If I hadn’t had an empty 5.25 bay all excess power cable length would have been shoved there. Just ignore the FDD ribbon cable as I thought I had a rounded one in the parts box but didn’t. That eventually will be replaced.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/RightsideCableTray-1.jpg

johnnyfiive
03-16-2010, 01:12 AM
Hah that is sweet! I like the color theme, and who doesn't like the Wizard of Oz?!?! Nice!

jedihobbit
03-16-2010, 01:15 AM
Here are a few pix to show where we now stand wiring wise. Wanted to get it started up but seem to have a slight problem……the HDD seems to be DOA, all the fans spin, lights come on, but know vid or anything. Touched the drive itself and can not even feel any “vibration”. As the HDD is going to be replaced any way and the I/O plate installed I’ll faness the cabeling then. Also hope to add another XFX GTS250 in a couple of weeks or so.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/LftSideInteriorView2.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/LftInteriorClose1.jpg

And speaking of GTS 250s here is what I did to the one I have……..the fuzzy pic hides the fact I painted this too quickly and too heavily trying to beat a self imposed deadline for the assembly. Basically get it together and running before the wife returned home from MD.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/OziswsGTS250.jpg


Now that leaves me with trying to decide if I want to control the two fans and where I want to use the temp probs. Right now the fans are running off of the mobo.

So should I use the fan controller and where should I monitor temperatures as for the most part I do HWMon without looking at the case?

swmeek
03-16-2010, 02:07 PM
Your wiring looks most impressive young jedi!

PP Mguire
03-16-2010, 07:13 PM
You did a sweet job on modding the case. I plan on redoing my old Raidmax case sometime soon and will be installing my current rig into it. Will be a big difference compared to the Antec 1200 hehe

jedihobbit
03-16-2010, 08:10 PM
As that was the first window I ever did you wouldn't want to see what it looks like on the inside!:dielaffin:

Blacksmith1
03-17-2010, 03:21 AM
what was the case before you started?

jedihobbit
03-17-2010, 03:42 AM
what was the case before you started?

Really can't answer that as the case was a "generic cheapie" that I picked up at a computer show back in '01 or '02. The window and the airbrushing was done '02 - '03 when I built it. :?

Original specs (for S & Gs) Generic “PacMan” Case >> Enermax 365-VEFCA >> Asus A7N266/PA/WOL w/ Tt BluOrb on NB >> AMD 1900+ Palomino w/Modded Tt Volcano 7 >> VisionTech G3 Ti-200 W/ Tt BluOrb & Sinks >> Maxtor 40Gig 740X-6L IDE >> On Board Sound >> Afree 52X CD-R >> TDK 40x24x40 CD-RW >> 1 x 512 Crucial PC2700 w/ Tt Heat Spreader >> MS 98SE. :icon_shock: :pointand: :grin:

PP Mguire
03-17-2010, 09:19 PM
You did that window yourself? Dude that looks amazing compared to my first and last window LOL

jedihobbit
03-17-2010, 10:20 PM
You did that window yourself? Dude that looks amazing compared to my first and last window LOL

Actuall I've gotten three window install under my belt and with "newer" tools it has become easier! :grin:

When I get a chance I do a wee bit more details as to how I butchered the sheet metal! :)

jedihobbit
03-28-2010, 05:31 PM
Managed to get a few things done on the mechanicals while being flustered with the 750a's bios and overclocking.........


......When I get a chance I do a wee bit more details as to how I butchered the sheet metal! :)

As I didn't do any pix when this thing was originally built thought I'd toss out some of the window to show that it is rather crude. As I went with what was available (no dremel) here is what happened.

1. Went to Lowes and bought a sheet of plex (use only lexan now)
2. Was working a P/T job where I could borrow a whole puller (no hole saws). Had a basic idea of what I wanted so dropped the hole centers and pulled the holes.
3. Drew lines tangent to holes and went after it with a jig saw and man it was "oil can" alley! :frown:
4. Tried to smooth things out with a file but that was a joke so went to PepBoys and bought some edging.
5. Put that on to hide the ragged edges and then cut the plex to fit with a coping saw. After test fitting it needed to remove material where the dempled "handle" is and notch on corner.
6. Then realized I didn't have any means of attaching it to side panel. :-( After scurrying around the garage to find a method I had an inspiration...the clear silicon adhesive I had just used for a bathroom project. As ususal in a rush and needed to get it done!:dielaffin:

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/Oz1AWindowExterior.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/Oz1AWindowExteriorDetail.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/Oz1AWindowInterior.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/Oz1AWindowInteriorDetail.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/Oz1AWindowInteriorHandCutout.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/SiliconeCaulkGlued.jpg

jedihobbit
03-29-2010, 01:11 AM
There are several things left to do before it is buttoned up and declared “done”. However until those parts arrive and painted I’ll be just piddling. Pretty much have given up on the overclocking part of this build and it’ll be my last XFX mobo!

With two temperature sensors and two fan controllers I'm still trying to figure out what to do with them. The fans are easy as there are only two however not really sure what to do temp wise. For right now I’ve one on the NB cooler and the other stuck into one of the GTS 250s. Think the NB will stay so open for suggestions for the other one.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/NBTempSensor2.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/GPUTempSensor.jpg

The second GTS250 came with Friday’s mail so installed that to test when I return from work after midnight. Seemed to do okay so off to paint in my usual rush mode. Had to buy a new can of paint and that appears to have cured one of the issues I had when painting the first card. That and it wasn’t raining! Anyway one of these days I spread that task out over several days as one should, but until here is the second 250 before it went into the box.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/GTS2502Painted2.jpg

Then in it went, this is my first foray into SLI BTW unless you want to include my two pci voodoos that I used in Gateway G6 10+ years ago!

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/SLISideView.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/SLIDetail.jpg

Right now I’m doing Prime to see if the system can be declared stable before going on to other stuff. Here is what it looks like in the dark with the initial led fans and am contemplating if I want to try a couple of UV laser lights I have lying around. Also there is room for a 92mm fan in the top for a blow hole if that becomes necessary.

My constant lab assistant kept getting in the way as I was laying on the floor try to take the “night” shots!

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/AssistantOz1A.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/Oz1AInteriorDark.jpg

Blacksmith1
03-29-2010, 01:14 AM
good thing you can't see the inside from the outside. that window looks great.

jedihobbit
05-03-2010, 04:48 AM
Back to the cooling issues!! :( Right now I'm running without the case side panel and the gpus still are running 60 - 74C with folding. Still wish I could figure out which 250 is GPU2 as that is the hot one in HWMon and Precision. Tried lowering the fan speed thru Precision but it keeps bouncing back up to 100% to match the other card! :confused: Also add to the fact I'll be adding 1 x SMP to the mix for more heat.
Anyway I'm of the opinion it is the upper card as the cover feels "warmer" than the lower one.

So far this is what I have fan wise....

Incoming is 1 x 120mm

Exhaust is 1 x 80mm, 2 x GPU fans, & the PSU.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/SLISideViewFanFlow.jpg

Have been contemplateing installing a 92mm blow hole (biggist that'll fit) between the PSU and the optical drives, but not sure if that'll help much.

As has been suggested I may need to add something to the side panel, but again I'm afraid to touch the plex window as it isn't the highest of quality.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/FanLocationLtSideView.jpg

So what do you think is more important incomeing or exhaust???? Suggestion???

Dragon
05-03-2010, 07:57 AM
use blue tape over the area that needs to be cut. also you may wanna consider getting a aftermarket cooler for your cards if you planning on running a folding client on them. If you going to put a side panal fan make sure it is a 120mm fan also i recommend at least a 70 CFM rating. placement you want to put it to where the fans on the video cards are and split the 120 so that both cards get that fresh air.

Blacksmith1
05-03-2010, 09:06 PM
Still wish I could figure out which 250 is GPU2 as that is the hot one in HWMon and Precision.
this is not a joke! I had the same problem in rivatuner (which precision is based on) so I put my finger on the fan of the lower card to see which one heated up. in rivatuner the bottom card is gpu1, the upper is gpu0. (that would be gpu2 and gpu1 if yours has no zero) this is with my monitor plugged into the upper card. don't know if that makes a difference. but it's an easy way to test which one is which in your system. since you are using a different program that I am I suggest you do this instead of assuming they will be the same.



So what do you think is more important incomeing or exhaust???? Suggestion???


intake seems to be the thing as far as getting air where you want it. I run with both sides off my case now and can feel warmer air coming out by the HDD rack. I am assuming it's from the gpus. and have a small, approx. 50 mm, fan hanging right next to my sli ribbon blowing air right at my gpu intake and a 120 sitting on the desk blowing air into that same area under and between the cards. dropped my temps at least 10 c that way. now if I just kill all the cats and children in the house it might stay cleaner...



was just looking at your airflow diagram. pretty much how my system is when closed except my gpu's exhaust into the case rather than out the back.

jedihobbit
05-04-2010, 03:51 AM
......... placement you want to put it to where the fans on the video cards are and split the 120 so that both cards get that fresh air.

Will have to do another shot of the side panel in place as the one I marked up is of the original Skt A layout. What do you suggest I cut the plex with?? I do have a dermel but the disks seem to melt the plex not cut it.

@ Blacksmith1 (tried shortening it to BS1 but that didn't look nice! ;-)) I may take more time on doing the touch method later this week. Can't relate to the "children" (unless the wofe counts) but do have two long hairs that drive me nuts! :grin:

BTW does anyone think the blow hole would be viable or should I concentrate on getting more air IN for now??

Dragon
05-04-2010, 05:42 AM
use a drywall cutter bit it looks like a drill bit sorta. this one here (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Dremel-Drywall-Cutting-Bit-560/14299596?sourceid=1500000000000003260370&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=14299596)

this is what i use for all my plexi needs here (http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-Multi-Purpose-Cutting-565D/dp/B0000302YS)

but you may have to come to the realization you may need a newer chassis :(

jedihobbit
05-04-2010, 06:04 AM
On getting a new chassis........won't happen as it is the wife's, she loves the air brushing, and the only way I may stay alive is to use it........or sal the innerds. :ahhhhh:

Had another thought (getting a headache), if I can increase the bottom clearence wonder if I could put a 120 in the bottom and use some sort of "deflector" to get air to the top card?

Blacksmith1
05-04-2010, 04:24 PM
the blow hole will increase the over all heat removal by forcing the air path to exit the top. as for the bottom i was thinking the same thing about mine. and go ahead and shorten it. it's one of the things I always liked about the nick:grin: when i was level editing a few years back all my maps were named BS1_ mapnamehere. I take no offense it has also been shortened to Black, Blacky, Bsmith, all kinds of stuff because of it's length.
just don't call me late for dinner....;-)

I am thinking about getting a couple of THESE (http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1164&ID=1727) for my case since I want to put the blowhole option in mine. gotta figure out where to move the usb, fire wire, and "front side" audio since they all on top where I need the fan. and I need one to replace my TT exhaust fan on the back (never touch the orange TT fans when running, even by accident)

Dragon
05-04-2010, 07:06 PM
On getting a new chassis........won't happen as it is the wife's, she loves the air brushing, and the only way I may stay alive is to use it........or sal the innerds. :ahhhhh:

Had another thought (getting a headache), if I can increase the bottom clearence wonder if I could put a 120 in the bottom and use some sort of "deflector" to get air to the top card?

you can only go so far on an old chassis. the older xp chassis barely cuts it for these newer high performance components. its like I tell my pops, it comes down to two choices. choice #1 use a comonent and have all kinds of minor problems (that normally turn into major ones) or choice #2, suck it up and sacrafice beauty for all out user ability. .

in your case, it is all bout cooling. do you sacrifice cooling so you have a chassis that looks cool, but has the cooling capacity of a brick oven, and take a chance on frying components that clearly cost more then the chassis. or do you get a bit more updated chassis that cools well?

you are only as good as your best component. also point in fact whats the point of keeping your chassis if you keep the side panal off all the time to keep it cool. which is your reason for keepin the chassis.

jedihobbit
05-04-2010, 07:35 PM
..........also point in fact whats the point of keeping your chassis if you keep the side panal off all the time to keep it cool. which is your reason for keepin the chassis.

PLEASE don't make the wife right!! :bawling: :dielaffin: :coocoo: :roll: :wink:

Okay you've given me a wake up call, but..............do you think combining a bottom fan(s) with a blow hole might be an option?

Blacksmith1
05-04-2010, 08:51 PM
if you drop your cd/dvd drives down one you can fit 2 120's up there combined with a set of legs and 3 on the bottom you will have a case forced into submission :grin:. I added to your diagram.;-)
you WILL need to figure out some way to filter the bottom fans if you keep it on the floor.

jedihobbit
05-04-2010, 09:13 PM
The final resting place I envision for this unit will actually be some kind of table or display area off the floor but until then filter it'll have to be because of "my kids".........

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/SeemoSeemoSeemo2A.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/DeskDeeble.jpg

Like the suggestion for moving the drives as that way I can put in a 120 insteed of a 92. However many more fans and I'll need more than just a two fan controller!

jedihobbit
05-05-2010, 01:20 AM
How about one of these in the bottom with a companion 120 or duplicate at top (if there's enough sheet metal! :whistler:)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_316&products_id=26720 :yes:

Dragon
05-05-2010, 01:51 AM
the issue is not necesserily the incomigng but out going air. if you have too much coming in and not enough going out that air remains stagnant will in turns starts to heat up.

Blacksmith1
05-05-2010, 02:32 AM
true but with the PSU fan and the one at the rear both out flow, I think that it would over all keep air moving thru his case. and Jedi that fan has higher Db and the same CFM as the one I suggested, It does look alot cooler tho'

and your cats need a haircut, Damn hippie cats......

jedihobbit
05-05-2010, 02:58 AM
the issue is not necesserily the incomigng but out going air. if you have too much coming in and not enough going out that air remains stagnant will in turns starts to heat up.

I appreciate your input Dragon and I'm not disputing you, just have to try and make what I have work. After all the fan mods if I still have the heat issue then one of the 250s will come out (or she'll let me get a newer case!). :thumleft:

What I'm looking to do is as in the "old days" where over pressurization was the deal forcing the air out any holes available. Combined with the mesh expansion slots, the cooling holes next to the 80mm, thinking of popping out some of the odd knok outs on the rear, I hopeing for a lot of "leakage". Also hope the directional coolers on the GPUs, and as BS1 says the PSU will also vent. Throw in something on top there should be lots of air going somewhere! :rolleyes: Of course I'll have to give the wife ear plugs and I'll turn down the hearing aids.:dielaffin:

@ BS1 :bling:is important (if yours had leds in it well.......) and the gray one just got his annual summer cut.........we call it his "baboon cut", I'll have to get a couple of pix up. Here's one they called a "lion cut" as they just leave the hair long around the head, legs , & tail.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/CeemoInbox.jpg

They definately have us well trained!!

Dragon
05-05-2010, 04:45 AM
if you can add a side panal fan, then if you can manage it add a 120 mm blow hole up top. and maybe increase the rear fan hole to a 90/92mm fan.

Blacksmith1
05-05-2010, 04:44 PM
I pulled all the leds out of my system. I gave the blue fan to my wife for her XION case, so it's now blue and green, gave the UV sticks to a friend for his motorbike, and the uv leds( just 2 on a molex) to the same guy for his comp case. I have an old TT sunami wave that is missing the front door/cover, is covered in scratches, and generaly looks like crap, it is the worst looking case in my circle of friends and family. i always have the worst looking case, cause I give the good looking ones to the wife, mother in law, kids... somebody, to make them happy. of course only the wife and oldest boy realize that my system is the fastest thing in that same circle.
but if I win that hades case in the contest... they can all kiss my butt!!! " MINE!!!!! MINE!!!!! MINE!!!!! MINE!!!!! " :grin:
I pretty much got over the bling thing awhile back. as long as the case does the job, I'll spend inside it instead.

jedihobbit
05-05-2010, 04:57 PM
.........but if I win that hades case in the contest... they can all kiss my butt!!! " MINE!!!!! MINE!!!!! MINE!!!!! MINE!!!!! " :grin:
I pretty much got over the bling thing awhile back. as long as the case does the job, I'll spend inside it instead.

Think I've missed that one!??!:sleep2::coffee:

For me the cutting and painting and changing is what got me into the hobby. Only had one case I didn't touch but it still had 2 blue 120s!

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/YsSMNv3/YsSMNLft3-4Frt.jpg

Blacksmith1
05-05-2010, 06:30 PM
I can see why you didn't want to change it. that's a nice looking box.

jedihobbit
05-05-2010, 06:54 PM
Well me butt has been handed me on a plater as I dumbed in a couple of 120mm in the bottom. While there is room I would not be able to access any of the plugs along the bottom of the mobo. :-( Could possiblly do one or two 92s to allow a "reach over", but it is looking more like a 92 - 120 in the door window as Dragon has suggested. Still thinking and it will fit (barely) doing a 140 in the top, 120 minimum.

Now to review, contemplate, and butcher! ;-)

Blacksmith1
05-05-2010, 08:28 PM
what if you plug them in then bolt them down, and I still think you can put 2 in the top if you move the disk drives down and the blank to the top.

jedihobbit
05-05-2010, 08:37 PM
what if you plug them in then bolt them down, and I still think you can put 2 in the top if you move the disk drives down and the blank to the top.

1. Any large fans mounted in the bottom would have to be removed to do anything with the motherboard. Then again guess that is much of an issue. Realistically though 2 x 120s will be too large as they would hit the speaker mount (replace??) and the rear feet "dimples".

2. Unless you plan of "burying" one totally in the drive bay area 1 x 120 or 1 x 140 is it. I really think if I can fit it the low or middle range Yate Loon 140 would be more than enough.

As soon as I can find some "clear" green lex or plex I plan to mod the zalman fan controller. That way I can run 4 fans via reo and two at off, +12, or +5. That would cover everything!:grin:

Blacksmith1
05-05-2010, 08:45 PM
or you could just get one of the squirrel cage blowers like they use to ventilate manholes and a big hose.......... so much for bling, unless you find one of those "SPINNER" hubcaps to hide the fan with.:razz:

jedihobbit
07-26-2010, 06:03 PM
We're back!!

Back on the cooling for Oz1a……the top 120mm will be a given, however I’m still torn on if I should do a window mounted fan or if I can get away with something in the bottom.

For a bottom mounted fan(s) I have considered picking up a set of these http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=popup_image_scroll&products_id=4001&image_scroll_id=0 and depending on their height could do clear plastic tube to raise them higher. That would give me the “ground clearance” for the fan(s) to work. Also looking at doing something like this to keep the dust bunnies down http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=popup_image_scroll&products_id=27371&image_scroll_id=0 .

Then as my sucky sketch shows do a clear plex/lex deflector to get cooler air to the top card. The bottom GPU only covers half of a 120mm and thought to direct the balance to the upper card.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/Oz1aLowerFanw-DeflectorSkt.jpg

Another option I had thought about is still using the bottom fan(s) but figure how to add one or two of these to help direct the airflow. Maybe this would be enough to get something to the smoken’ NB cooler under the top vid card.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/GR-YWZalmanFan1.jpg

Blacksmith1
07-27-2010, 05:36 AM
looky http://www.bjorn3d.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30271&highlight=funky+fanage+fun
it did lower the temps from the mpc (750a chipset) since you use the same board....

jedihobbit
07-27-2010, 12:03 PM
Needless to say the -OP1 will not do the cfm that the thermaltake does and you combined that with a door fan.

The door fan is what I'm trying to avoid, so maybe the combo of floor fan and the -OP1(s) or use the deflector?

Blacksmith1
07-27-2010, 01:55 PM
I think the floor fan, which will be at least 67 cfm, and the twin zalmans should work. and be quieter than the TT was (it finally died btw).
if you need to you can add the duct after to ruinng the air up to the intake side of the zalmans.

I wasn't really running the door fan, since every time I USE the system, I have to open the side to keep it cool. I have some fan holes of my own to do.
I keep looking at the back of your case. can't you cut a 120 in there? it looks like you have just enough room if you're carful about the placement.

jedihobbit
07-27-2010, 02:51 PM
Not even a 92 as what you see is an 80! The two marked areas had at one time been considered for cutouts with mesh..........

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/Oz1abackviewmarkup.jpg

Blacksmith1
07-27-2010, 03:41 PM
How old is that case? I haven't seen one that narrow in a long time.
and I have that same grill on the door fan of one of the kids machines, I stole it from an old 754 CPU fan/sink

jedihobbit
07-27-2010, 03:56 PM
Original 'puter was built '01 - '02.........:dielaffin: :roll:

That is one of the original ThermalTake smart fans!

Blacksmith1
07-27-2010, 05:36 PM
well if you ever don't want that grill you can send it to me.

jedihobbit
07-27-2010, 09:05 PM
well if you ever don't want that grill you can send it to me.

PM me your addy........would even throw in the fan for postage. :grin:

jedihobbit
01-01-2011, 06:38 AM
Finally got around to working on the fan issue and a few other things a few weeks again, then life got in the way again. So here is where it stands right now.

Before I get on with the slicing and dicing there are a couple of issues that are bugging me…….

1. The wiring the powers the LED feet did a meltdown. Funny thing is the only wires to melt run from the mail to female molex pass thru to where it has been spliced to the wiring for the LEDs. Which seemed a lighter gage than the rest. Logisys hasn’t returned any requests for info. Trying to remove the LEDs from the feet so I can repair the damage but can’t get the lights out of the feet (friction fit).
2. Can’t get the system to pick up the second 250GTS for SLI.

Had several things I wanted to get done…….

1. LED Feet
2. Fan hole in top and bottom
3. Paint and install some fan grills
4. Add filters to bottom and front fans
5. Replace 9700-NT (went to another build) with 8700-NT
6. Do something with the blue faceplate in the Zalman Fan Controller

Here is the order that I needed to get started……..

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/NewThings.jpg

Under the heading of “best laid plans of mice and men….” was a major fitting issue. The original plan had called for dropping the two optical drives down on to two slots so as to have room for a 120mm fan instead of the originally planned 92mm. However the opticals are the originals from the beginning and are quiet long.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/OpticalDriveInterfearence3.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/OpticalDriveInterfearence2.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/OpticalDriveInterfearence1.jpg

So ended up trashing the CD-Rom drive and keeping the DVD-RW where it was (it fit) and as the faceplate is already painted and didn’t want to invest in another one anyway. Ended up putting the fan controller in the top slot which was the plan. As there are a few outstanding things I haven’t taken any front view pix yet.

On to the top and bottom fan holes. As I didn’t have a hole saw I had to use my dremel and I can’t cut a round hole to save my life. That is why I decided to do the “octagonal” method. Doesn’t look too bad and isn’t too hard. The only thing that didn’t really work that well for me is the fact that the top paint is rather thick and if one looks closely the area around the hole doesn’t look the best. Because both the top and bottom hole were done I didn’t duplicate pictures. One thing, as mentioned before, that I liked about this old case was how far down one can take the chassis easily. Here we have the chassis ready for the laying out and cutting the hole as well as removing the original feet.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/ChassisreadyforBottomHoleFeet-1.jpg

First the tape and pin hole(s) laid out, started cutting, finished cut, the filing and grinding (not shown), then mounting the fan. Also for the bottom and front fans I added a couple of filters that are pretty neat as their “frame” is magnetic.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/TopHoleLaidOut.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/StartingBottomHoleCut.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/TopHoleCut.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/BottomHoleDoneWFan.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/2010_1129VF3000N0174.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/FrontFanFilter2.jpg

For those areas where the fans may be mounted in plastic an adaptor ring is supplied.

jedihobbit
01-01-2011, 06:39 AM
Now on to the fan controller……..I’ve had a Zalman ZM-MFC1 floating around for years from a build that didn’t get finished. So with four fans in the case thought that would be a good thing to use. It has an attractive, to me, translucent faceplate but obviously the wrong color. Tried to find translucent yellow but couldn’t so settle for opaque. Only issue now is finding a way to get some instructions added to make it look finished.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/NewFanControllerFaceplate.jpg

It had been the plan to use one of the +12 – OFF - +7 toggles for the LED feet so removed the factory on-off switch that is mounted in a rear I/O plate. Here it is wired up…..

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/FeetLEDPwrHookup.jpg

….however for whatever reason part of the “wiring harness” melted.

The original HSF was overkill but “looked neat” a Zalman CNPS9700-NT, but when I had the opportunity to use it in another build in came a CNPS8700-NT which at 19 – 20C for idle and the mid to upper 20sC under load.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/8700-NTinPlace.jpg

So until which time I can figure out the SLI issue, get the feet LEDs repaired, and finalize the wire management I’ll leave you with these……..

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/SideViewW-OPnl.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/SideViewWindow.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d140/jedihobbit/Oz1%20v2/SideWindowDark2.jpg

Blacksmith1
01-01-2011, 10:55 AM
this is the xfx750a, check the jumpers on the board there are 4 about an inch long each. should be in the 2-3 pos IIRC. then check bios to be sure that the sli setting is enabled. both have to be done for it to see a card in the top slot. which bios does it have? I know the 1.5 broke the sli feature. the 2 I know work for sure are the 1.3 and the 1.7. the 1.7 is on the xfx site, the 1.3 I can send you if you need it.

jedihobbit
01-01-2011, 04:03 PM
Thanks BS1 for the suggestions.........oddly enough all the hardware is set up for SLI as that is what it was running before I used "something" software wise to stop as I was doing 2 x GPU folding until that crapped for some reason. Want to test temps to see if all the stuff I did really helped or not before declaring it "finished". ;-)

EDIT: 1.7 BTW

Blacksmith1
01-02-2011, 05:57 PM
I have to disable my sli and extend my desktop to my second monitor every time I quit gamming and start folding. I also have to uncheck the extension, and reboot to get back into SLI mode. big time pain, but it works with no problems that way.

swmeek
01-02-2011, 08:50 PM
With the new gpu tracker program I didn't have to turn off SLI when i was Folding on my 9800's.

Blacksmith1
01-03-2011, 06:26 AM
I have to have the card active which means I have to extend my desktop even had to when I didn't have a monitor on the card. and it won't extend in sli that's on both the 32 and 64 bit vers of xp. (might be this M/B tho") which os are you using. if I've asked before sorry, but I don't see it in your sig, and have large holes in my mem from having oldtimers syndrome...

swmeek
01-03-2011, 04:04 PM
On my main rig windows XP 32 bit pro

jedihobbit
01-03-2011, 04:15 PM
With the new gpu tracker program I didn't have to turn off SLI when i was Folding on my 9800's.

What be that??

swmeek
01-03-2011, 04:19 PM
That would be the new easy to set up Folding@Home program a lot of us are using now.
When you get your 580's corralled you oughta start Folding for the team here my friend! :D
Those puppies would be good for around 34-35,000 points a day for the pair.
also make you eligible for some pf the neat prizes they give away here.
http://fahtracker.com/

jedihobbit
01-03-2011, 04:29 PM
That is what happens when you use so many different forums and recieve such excellent help, dividing up one's "folding power" gets complex! :oops: :-( :stuck:

It is hoped that as soon as all systems are up and running and the out come of the running battle I continually have with the wife over running 24/7 is resolved I can help here and a couple of other places. ;-)

Blacksmith1
01-04-2011, 04:39 PM
That is what happens when you use so many different forums and receive such excellent help, dividing up one's "folding power" gets complex! :oops: :-( :stuck:
OK I'll make it easy,, just a quick roll of my 8 sided dice..... and here's the decision, we get the warp powered system, they get anything else.:na:

jedihobbit
04-26-2011, 03:43 AM
Okay I'm back on this thing and again I can't get the 2nd card even to show up in system manager, cpu monitor or nuttin!! So back to head scratching and looking for help. :-(:stuck:

jedihobbit
04-27-2011, 03:50 AM
Okay first up was I went into bios and enabled SLI, rebooted and ...........................................it wouldn't reboot!! Monitor indicated no signal. Pull out card and tried again and ...................nothing. Swapped out card and it begrudgingly boot up so disabled SLI. SLI jumpers are correct on the mobo by the way.

Blacksmith1
04-27-2011, 08:18 AM
did you put the little card to card cable in? that shouldn't really stop it from booting, but you will need it if this gets resolved.
make sure all the contacts are clean, both on the cards and in the slots.
ok if it boots on one and not the other, it's time to test both cards. use one at a time on this system, and maybe try them both in another system seperately to see if they both function. if they both work , then try them doing something that taxes them. or use a diagnostics software that will push them to see if they fail at some point.

Leganfuh
04-27-2011, 09:10 AM
Excellent build!!

CDsDontBurn
04-29-2011, 01:16 AM
OMG, Pac-Man!!!!

That was my very first case I used for my very first build back when I was a kid!!! OMG, the memories!!!

btw....I didn't read anything, I just looked at pictures, lol.

swmeek
04-29-2011, 04:16 PM
wakkka wakkka wakkka

jedihobbit
04-29-2011, 06:07 PM
@ swmeek, are those the secret words I need to use to get my SLI to work?? ;-)

@ BS1, yes I used the SLI jumper, hope to play swap the card this weekend to see if one is DOA (they were both working at one time in SLI until I tried to run dual clients (the old way). Me things its this weird XFX 750a showing it ars again.

Need to get this "finished" for a few reasons, chief of which is I need to work with KFv2 and CS R.

Blacksmith1
04-29-2011, 06:19 PM
when i had the manually configured dual clients i had to drop out of sli to run them. with the v7 or gpu tracker it just ran on each card no problem, but it never buggered my system like you are talking about. I did (and still do) have to reboot every time i wanted to go back into sli, set SLI, reboot, apply. big PITA. now I just leave it in SLI mode.

jedihobbit
04-29-2011, 06:38 PM
Yeah I dropped out of SLI and tried the dual GPU thing, then lost or corrupted something and could only fold with one card. So until I had time to work on the cooling issue(s) I removed one of the cards. Disabled SLI in BIOS and left the mechanical jumps on the XFX in SLI position. It has been folding fairly successful like this with 1 GPU and 1 CPU client.

Decided after the success of Tracker V2 with KestrealFlight decided to go back to SLI and no joy.

Blacksmith1
04-30-2011, 01:44 AM
I hate when that happens....
it has to be something. (duh) so it's just a matter of taking the time to check it out point by point. hopefully it is card related, as the choice of sli boards for AMD/Nvida has narrowed considerably.

jedihobbit
04-30-2011, 05:23 AM
I hate when that happens....
it has to be something. (duh) so it's just a matter of taking the time to check it out point by point. hopefully it is card related, as the choice of sli boards for AMD/Nvida has narrowed considerably.

Ya think!! :( :roll: :wink:

jedihobbit
05-12-2011, 03:42 PM
wakkka wakkka wakkka

Instead of reading what you wrote, I just happen to "verbalize" it and "boing - boing - boing" I had a big DORH moment!!! Been a while since I played!!! :dielaffin: :beerchug:

jedihobbit
05-15-2011, 06:50 AM
As with all of my builds looks like there is still some changes coming down the pike with this build. Because of ebay and trying to figure out what I going to do with KestrelFlight v2.0 (water cooler) and the reserection of Celtic Spirit here's what may be happening, so need some advice again!! :ahhhhh:

Mobo: XFX MDA72P7509 AM2+/AM2 NVIDIA nForce 750a SLI (stays)
CPU: 8750 current >> 720BE >> 955BE
GPU: 2 x 250GTS current >> 2 x 285 GTX
HSF: CNPS8700-NT >> CNPS9900-NT

May have another surprise or two coming also concerning this unit. BTW I've looked but can't find......does anyone have a source that show the heatpipe cooler dimounted???? I'd like to see how the mosfets and the NB/SB are laid out. ;-)

Blacksmith1
05-17-2011, 01:12 AM
the mosfets are in line directly under the HS, the chipset is a standard heasink with paste (they are of course joined by the heatpipe). I don't think the mosfet has paste, I belive it uses one of those thermal induction pads. as for what it looks like without them??? pretty much the same as any other board does without them on.

jedihobbit
05-18-2011, 05:33 PM
Actually what I was hinting at was what is there if I planned on using after market cooler(s)..........mounting holes and where is what.

Blacksmith1
05-19-2011, 06:33 PM
there are 2 holes on the MCP/chipset that run at opposite corners, diagonal. the mosfet has one at each end. there are aftermarket coolers made to if the chipset specificly, both air (most of these are too tall for any "good" cards to fit over them) and liquid blocks. as for the mosfet, they make a generic waterblock ( I think it was danger den) that will fit, I don't know about air, as I never looked for an air replacement.

Blacksmith1
06-09-2011, 09:14 PM
here's a pic since mine died i just took the coolers off to grab a pic before I got rid of it.
http://i531.photobucket.com/albums/dd356/sflblacksmith/psumod/112_0813.jpg

and another just in case
http://i531.photobucket.com/albums/dd356/sflblacksmith/psumod/112_0812.jpg

Ya know looking at these pics I think it might have been my cats that killed it.....

jedihobbit
06-10-2011, 04:32 AM
Thanks man that'll be a help!! BTW if you haven't tossed it yet, save the heatpipe assy for a couple of days as I may end up chopping on mine.

Joshua_Mahr
06-10-2011, 12:34 PM
You need an intake fan you only have one. I would also consider putting one at the top between the CD and PSU.

jedihobbit
06-10-2011, 02:24 PM
You need an intake fan you only have one. I would also consider putting one at the top between the CD and PSU.

Go back to page 4 starting with reply #47......... ;-)

Joshua_Mahr
06-10-2011, 03:23 PM
Go back to page 4 starting with reply #47......... ;-)

:lol: That's what I get for not looking at the whole thread.

Blacksmith1
06-10-2011, 03:27 PM
Thanks man that'll be a help!! BTW if you haven't tossed it yet, save the heatpipe assy for a couple of days as I may end up chopping on mine.

Lucky for you I'm a packrat. i saved it thinking maybe I could use it for something else. I would lap it before reinstlling it tho. the bottom is the roughest surface i have ever seen on a heatsink. and apparently the theory of "more surface area" doesn't apply to heatsinks. the results I have seen on the web, and direct testimonial from our own mad scientist, say mirror fininsh is best.
@josh, we have been over and over his air flow situation. even drawing diagrams to demonstrate our ideas.

well forget the heatpipe, my 5 yr old got his hands on it and the heat pipe part is twisted. let me send it to you and if you need ot hack one hack this one.

jedihobbit
06-10-2011, 07:56 PM
:lol: That's what I get for not looking at the whole thread.

Been there done that!!! Thanks for the advice though, and will appreviate any more as I do some "four wheeling" on the next step!! :ahhhhh:


Lucky for you I'm a packrat. i saved it thinking maybe I could use it for something else. I would lap it before reinstlling it tho. the bottom is the roughest surface i have ever seen on a heatsink. and apparently the theory of "more surface area" doesn't apply to heatsinks. the results I have seen on the web, and direct testimonial from our own mad scientist, say mirror fininsh is best.
@josh, we have been over and over his air flow situation. even drawing diagrams to demonstrate our ideas.

well forget the heatpipe, my 5 yr old got his hands on it and the heat pipe part is twisted. let me send it to you and if you need ot hack one hack this one.

Thanks again BS as that way I can go back "stock" if the W/C ideas go out the window!! Would prefer to chill the mosfets also but if I can't find a block to fit I'll have to use theirs and air cool the snit out of it! ;-)

Blacksmith1
06-10-2011, 08:07 PM
in that case I'll include the ASUS fan I used on mine,

(pic is old m/b)2719
don't need it now as I got a new one with the asus I'm using now. I gotta find a padded manila envelope for this...

Blacksmith1
06-16-2011, 11:16 PM
Need your Address so I can send this stuff.