Klar Serpentine Belt "Chirps" when Driving - Page 2
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  1. #16
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    I'll be working on the car this Saturday for sure now! I'm actually excited to work on the car :D. I'll be taking pictures of it all and putting them up.

    In the mean time, I wanted to get your guys' input on this engine grease / oil buildup. I've noticed it before, but never really put much thought into it.









    When I go replace the spark plugs as part of the next job, all these hoses will also be replaced. But, that won't be done after I work on my Accord as she needs some TLC as well. So, it'll be a while before I can get the spark plugs and these hoses. I'm just looking for some insight as to what could be the cause of this gradual grease / oil buildup on all these hoses.

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  2. #17
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    Normal for buildup like that over time on an engine that hasn't ever been cleaned. At least that's what I've been told.
    Univac

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  3. #18
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    While I would agree with you on that, the part I find odd about this grease build up is from where it's building up at. This kind of build up I would expect it to be where gaskets would be placed. cracked gaskets would allow for oil to seep out slowly causing the oil to turn to grease as expected. But, this buildup is at HOSES.

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  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by CDsDontBurn View Post
    While I would agree with you on that, the part I find odd about this grease build up is from where it's building up at. This kind of build up I would expect it to be where gaskets would be placed. cracked gaskets would allow for oil to seep out slowly causing the oil to turn to grease as expected. But, this buildup is at HOSES.
    Actually those you pictures are quite obvious. Oil blow by can be common when an engine isn't cleaned and maintained regularly. The first hose pictured is coming right off the valve cover, and the other 2 look like smog ventilation of some sort from the PCV. The pics are real close so can't really tell exactly where they are coming from, but oil/grease build up is common from the hose off the valve cover. On a carbed engine that hose usually goes to the air filter container to filter smoke before reaching the air. I'm guessing this is doing something similar.

    If you replaced these hoses, cleaned the engine somehow, and then seafoamed it you wont see this for quite some time.
    Univac

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  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by PP Mguire View Post
    Actually those you pictures are quite obvious. Oil blow by can be common when an engine isn't cleaned and maintained regularly. The first hose pictured is coming right off the valve cover, and the other 2 look like smog ventilation of some sort from the PCV. The pics are real close so can't really tell exactly where they are coming from, but oil/grease build up is common from the hose off the valve cover. On a carbed engine that hose usually goes to the air filter container to filter smoke before reaching the air. I'm guessing this is doing something similar.

    If you replaced these hoses, cleaned the engine somehow, and then seafoamed it you wont see this for quite some time.
    Maintenance has been regular oil changes. Big maintenance I'm starting to do...slowly. This type of grease buildup is something I've never seen before like I said before. The engine is the 4.6L v8 from a 1997 Ford Thunderbird and - while not my specific car - here is a picture of one exactly like mine.



    Pictures 2 - 4 were taken at hoses surrounding the intake system. Picture 1 is attached to the right side valve cover like you mentioned. I think picture 4, that hose is attached to the left side valve cover, but i'm not 100% sure since I'm not familiar with the T-Bird like I am with my Accord. Picture 3 is the smaller hose that attaches to the intake tube on one side and connect to the top of the valve cover seen on picture 1. Picture 2, I have no idea what it is, but it looks like it connects directly to the throttle body.

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  6. #21
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    Yea, those hoses on the intake are the same area where the oil build up was on the Cavalier. Obviously different car, but same thing. She went 50k miles without an oil change and it tossed oil into the intake and gunked up the TB. After the oil change I had to clean the TB, intake box, change the filter, vac hoses, and PCV valve. Runs like new now and no more oil build up.

    Like I said, those hoses will have dirty air running through them. If the engine bay was cleaned on a regular basis (like idk every 10k) it wouldn't be there. If any of it leaks slightly it attracts and collect dirt easier than other parts of the engine.

    Worst case scenario, it could be signs of engine problems but if the engine is running strong and smooth then I doubt it.
    Univac

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  7. #22
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    After doing this work, the T-Bird seems much more responsive! Not sure which of the fixes I did, Intake filter, MAF cleaning, or pulleys, were the ones that made it feel more responsive. All I know is that acceleration is slightly more "peppy". The first things I replaced were the hood struts. Now, the hood wants to stay open! Oh, and now the CEL I had is off. Kinda expected since I removed the battery, but it has remained off. Though, I've only driven 35 miles since doing the job, so I'm not sure if that has been enough time for the CEL to come back on if it's supposed to come back on.

    So glad I got that done, and it was a real cheap and easy fix too! And here are some pics I took.

    MAF looked rather clean. I sprayed the crap out of it with MAF cleaner still though on all openings I found.



    The old intake. One corner was even - bottom right in this pic - was even broken off.



    Idler pulley on



    New air filter



    Filling the radiator / reservoir tank with coolant



    Getting all the air out



    One thing though, the car now seems to be running "hotter" than before. Is it possible that the T-Bird doesn't like the 50/50 mix I put in and would rather like a more concentrated 30 water / 70 antifreeze instead?

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  8. #23
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    Needs to go the other way. Water cools better than anti-freeze. It's what I was trying to say before.

    By hotter, what do you mean hotter? Needle should be anywhere around 195-210.
    Univac

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  9. #24
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    Well, the needle doesn't tell me exact engine temps. But from what I've read on the T-Bird forums, the temp sensor works like so:

    needle location is at 1/2 mark or below: engine temp = 212F or below

    needle location is between 1/2 mark - 3/4 mark: engine temp between 213F - 220F

    needle location is between 3/4 mark - line below "H": engine temp 220F - 260F

    I still need to monitor the coolant level as I still believe there are bubbles in the coolant system, and if an air pocket gets caught where the temp sensor is located at. If that happens, then it will throw off the temp sensor and cause the temp needle to severely go up and give incorrect temp readings.

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  10. #25
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    Where is the needle at? Should be half way mark once it's warmed up.
    Univac

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  11. #26
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    The day i did this work, it was jumping between 1/2 and 3/4 mark. So, I'm thinking there was an air pocket suck right where the temp sensor is located at. Today on the drive in to work, it was at 1/2 mark. Didn't budge from there.

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  12. #27
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    Sounds like you're good to go then. Still getting the belt chirp?
    Univac

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